I have been running up the engine. So far I have 45 minutes on it. A number of problems have reared their head. The wiring has to be re done. I need to eliminate the quick disconnect plug. The tach pick up wire needs to be rerouted away from all of the other leads. The tach is not reading properly. The pick up is inducing a signal into the adjacent wires, which in turn are inducing a second signal into the tach pick up lead. The CHT lead broke because there was not enough strain relief, the EGT never worked. I need to disconnect the instrument panel from the canopy, yet it still needs to pivot away when the canopy is raised. I'm going to make a secondary pivot for the Instrument panel. That should solve the problem and allow hard wiring direct to the panel and eliminate the disconnect plug. The second problem which is much more serious is excessive hear build up on the reduction drive mount. That in turn is conducting the heat to the back of the spinner backing plate. The spinner backing plate is room temp cured graphite epoxy laminate. As soon as it gets above 175 degrees, the plate gets soft and the spinner starts to wobble. I plan on solving this by three methods, I will post cure the spinner plate in the oven at 300 degrees. Hopefully that will raise the T/G (Temperature of gel) to near the hub temp. Next I will place a fiberfrax or Mica insulator between the hub and the spinner backing plate. Third I am going to drill some vent holes in the backing plate and in the inlet baffle. to direct some of the input cooling air toward the mount. There is no secondary air flowing in the rest of the cowl, this is causing high internal temps. Hopefully the internal duct I am ding to add will help this. It will take very little flow to solve this problem. Because of this, I decided to tear down the engine compartment and install a .012 aluminum heat shield over the top of the firewall fiberfrax insulation.
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Existing baffle wearing thru the FiberFrax |
The actual engine head temp is running cool, it seems to peak around 425 degrees. The spec allow the head to see 500 degrees. Because of this, I should be able to redirect some cooling air toward the reduction drive mount.
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New Aluminum heat shield |
I am in the process of finishing the engine re installation. I should have this finished tomorrow.
Finally I have a third problem that is also equally serious. My Fiberglass fuel tank is starting to deteriorate. I attribute this to the ethanol that is in modern fuels. I never had this problem 25 years ago on my Wren. I also do not like the design of the fuel pick up on this tank. Another glaring error I made was the lack of a tank sump for the fuel pick up. I also need a fuel shut off valve. The tank head pressure is overcoming the reed valves in the pumper carb, causing the engine to flood while sitting. The other problem I discovered, was that the fuel filter and line needs to be routed on the inlet side of the intake plenum.The fuel was cooking off when the engine was shut off causing a vapor lock and making starting hot very hard. I started laying up a new tank and I bought a special fuel tank epoxy coating designed to protect against the ethanol in the gasoline. Anyway, better to find all of this out on the ground then of first flight!!!
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